Autumn in Nepal runs from late September to November and is the best weather of the year: the monsoon has washed the air clean, the mountains are visible for days at a stretch, and it is warm without being hot. It is also when Dashain and Tihar fall, which means the entire country is travelling at once. Both facts matter equally when you plan a trip.
Why the skies are so clear
The monsoon takes the dust out of the atmosphere and then leaves. For a few weeks from about the beginning of October you get visibility that spring never manages — mountains sharp from the Tarai on a good morning, and long views from any ridge without waiting for a window. That is why October is the busiest trekking month in Nepal and why the photographs everyone has seen were taken in it.
The clarity fades gradually. By late November the air is still good but the cold is arriving at altitude, and by December the high routes have started to shut.
Dashain
Dashain is the longest and most important festival in the Nepali year, running fifteen days and building to Bijaya Dashami, the tenth day, when elders put a red tika and jamara barley shoots on the foreheads of younger family members and give blessings. People travel home for it, from India, from the Gulf, from Kathmandu to villages the length of the country. Offices close, many shops close, and the roads are extraordinary.
The dates move each year because the festival follows the lunar calendar, falling somewhere in September or October. Our Dashain guide covers the days and what happens on each, and the year's dates are in the Nepal festival calendar.
Tihar
Tihar follows a couple of weeks after Dashain and lasts five days. It is a festival of lights, oil lamps and marigold garlands, and each day honours something different — crows, dogs, cows, then Laxmi Puja when houses are lit and cleaned for the goddess of wealth, and finally Bhai Tika between brothers and sisters. Groups of singers go door to door in the evenings. Of the two, Tihar is much the easier to be a visitor during: shorter, more visible in the street, and less disruptive to transport. The Tihar guide goes through the five days.
What it means for a visitor, practically
| Period | Weather | Practical picture |
|---|---|---|
| Late September | Monsoon tailing off, some rain | Quiet, cheap, roads still recovering from landslides |
| Dashain fortnight | Usually clear and warm | Domestic transport full, many businesses shut, offices closed |
| Between Dashain and Tihar | Peak clarity | Busiest trekking window of the year; book ahead |
| Tihar week | Clear, cooling at altitude | Lively and worth seeing; transport busy but manageable |
| Late November | Clear, cold nights | Crowds thinning, high passes still open |
Four things follow from that. Domestic flights and long-distance buses sell out well in advance around Dashain, and the mountain sectors out of Nepalgunj are no exception — the practicalities are in how to get to West Nepal. Government offices, banks and permit desks close for days at a stretch, so anything requiring a stamp should be done before the festival starts. Prices for rooms and guides are at their annual peak in October, which is covered in the cost by season guide. And in villages, people will be at home rather than at work, which makes it a generous time to be a guest and a poor time to expect a shop to be open.
Should you avoid the festivals?
No. Travelling through Dashain and Tihar is harder than travelling in the second half of November, but it is also the only time you will see the country doing the thing it most cares about. The compromise most people land on is to be somewhere settled during the busiest days — a village, a park, a town you are happy to walk around — and to move on the quiet days either side.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is October the best month to visit Nepal?
For weather, yes. Clear air, warm days and reliable mountain views. It is also the most expensive and most crowded month, and the festival travel makes domestic transport difficult, so late November trades a little clarity for a much quieter trip.
Does everything close during Dashain?
Much of it, for several days around Bijaya Dashami. Offices, banks and many shops shut, and permit and immigration desks with them. Tourist guesthouses and restaurants generally stay open. Sort out anything official before the festival begins.
When are Dashain and Tihar?
Dashain falls in September or October and Tihar a couple of weeks later, in October or November. Both follow the lunar calendar, so the dates shift each year — check the festival calendar for the year you are travelling rather than assuming last year's dates.
Is it hard to travel around Nepal during the festivals?
Domestic buses and flights fill up and roads out of the cities are heavily loaded for a few days either side of the main festival days. Book earlier than you normally would, and expect delays rather than cancellations.