Mobile coverage in West Nepal is better than most visitors expect in the district headquarters and absent in a lot of the country between them. Nepal Telecom reaches further into the hills than Ncell; Ncell is usually faster where it works. A tourist SIM takes about fifteen minutes to buy with your passport. Above the last village on most high routes there is no signal at all, and no realistic prospect of one.
Nepal Telecom or Ncell
Two networks matter. Nepal Telecom, the state operator, has the wider footprint — it is the one with a tower in small district centres and along the hill roads, and if you are going anywhere remote it is the sensible choice. Ncell, the private operator, is generally quicker and often cheaper for data, and is strong in the Tarai towns and the cities.
| Nepal Telecom | Ncell | |
|---|---|---|
| Remote hills and mountains | Better reach, more towers in small centres | Patchy to absent |
| Tarai towns and cities | Good | Good, usually faster |
| Data speed where both work | Adequate | Generally quicker |
| Buying as a visitor | Airport and operator shops | Airport and operator shops |
People travelling for a while in the west often carry both, one in each slot of a dual-SIM phone, and switch depending on where they are standing. If you only want one, take Nepal Telecom.
Buying a SIM
Bring your passport. SIM registration is a legal requirement in Nepal, so you will fill in a form and hand over a copy of the passport and usually a passport photograph, though shops will often take a photo of you on the spot instead. Counters for both operators sit in the arrivals hall at Kathmandu airport, and there are shops in every town of any size, including Nepalgunj, Surkhet and Dhangadhi.
Data packs are bought separately from the SIM, in bundles by size and duration, and topped up at any of the small shops with an operator sign outside. Ask the shopkeeper to activate the pack while you are standing there rather than working through the menus yourself. An eSIM is available from some providers, but it runs on the same two physical networks, so it changes the convenience and not the coverage.
Where there is genuinely no signal
Above the last permanently inhabited village, generally nothing. In practice that means most of the high routes: the passes and the upper valleys of Mugu, the trails beyond the road head in Upper Dolpo, and much of the ground between settlements in Humla, where a village may have a signal and the two days of walking either side of it may have none. Deep valleys lose the signal even when a tower is not far away, because the line of sight is blocked by a ridge.
The reliable pattern is that district headquarters and larger villages have coverage and 4G, that it fades within an hour or two of walking, and that the gaps are measured in days rather than hours on the remote routes. Plan on telling people at home that you will be out of contact for a stretch, and give them a date rather than leaving them to worry.
Satellite messengers
Handheld satellite messengers are commonly carried by groups on remote high routes, and they are the practical answer for a genuine emergency in a place with no mobile signal. Satellite phones are a different matter: bringing one into Nepal requires prior permission from the telecommunications authority, and the rules around satellite equipment change, so check the current position before travelling rather than assuming. If you are going into a restricted area you will have a registered agency and a licensed guide anyway, and communications should be part of that conversation — the requirements are in our guide to restricted area permits for Dolpa, Humla and Mugu.
Charging
Electricity in the hill districts comes from the grid where it reaches, from micro-hydro schemes on local rivers, and from solar panels on individual roofs. All three are intermittent. Grid supply cuts out, micro-hydro output drops when the river is low in winter or filthy in the monsoon, and solar depends on the day you have had.
In trekking lodges, charging a device is usually a paid service by the hour and the socket is in the dining room rather than your bedroom. Bring a power bank large enough to cover several days, a multi-port charger so one socket serves you and a companion, and a cable you trust. Cold flattens batteries quickly, so keep the phone and the power bank inside your jacket during the day and in your sleeping bag at night. Nepal uses the round-pin plug types common in South Asia, and sockets in older buildings accept several shapes, so a universal adaptor is worth carrying.
The routes in and out, and where the road ends, are covered in how to get to West Nepal.
Frequently Asked Questions
Which SIM is best for trekking in Nepal?
Nepal Telecom, for reach. It has towers in small district centres and along the hill roads where Ncell has none. Ncell is generally faster in the towns and the Tarai, which is why people travelling widely carry both.
Can I buy a SIM card at Kathmandu airport?
Yes, both operators have counters in the arrivals hall. Take your passport, because registration is required by law, and expect to fill in a short form and provide a photograph.
Is there internet in Jumla and Simikot?
There is mobile data in the district headquarters, and guesthouses in the larger centres often have wireless internet of some kind. It is slow by the standards you are used to and drops out with the power. Do not plan on video calls or large uploads.
How do you charge a phone on a remote trek?
In lodges, usually for a fee, from a socket in the communal room, and only when the supply is running. Carry a power bank sized for several days, keep it warm, and treat every charging opportunity as the last one for a while.