About the Dolpa Trek
Shey Phoksundo Lake in Dolpa district is Nepal's deepest lake at 145m, and one of its most spectacular. The water is a striking turquoise-green — coloured by mineral deposits from the surrounding cliffs — and sits in a valley that shares its geological and cultural identity with the Tibetan plateau. The surrounding landscape is arid and dramatic: ochre cliffs, sparse juniper scrub, and chortens (Buddhist monuments) silhouetted against vast blue sky.
Dolpa is one of Nepal's most restricted districts. Upper Dolpa — which includes Shey Gompa, a 13th-century monastery visited by pilgrims once every 12 years — requires a USD 500 per week restricted area permit, one of the most expensive in Nepal. Lower Dolpa, which includes Shey Phoksundo Lake, is accessible with the standard park entry fee. The distinction matters significantly for budget and itinerary planning.
Getting There
The standard access is by domestic flight from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj, then a mountain flight to Juphal airport (2,475m) near Dunai. From Juphal it is 2–3 days' trekking to Shey Phoksundo Lake. The return follows the same route. An alternative is the Kagmara La crossing (5,115m) connecting Dolpa to Jumla — a more strenuous but scenic circuit option.
Culture Along the Trail
The Dolpa region is home to the Dolpo-pa people — a Tibetan-speaking community who follow Bon Buddhism, the pre-Buddhist religion of the Himalayas. Villages such as Ringmo (near Phoksundo Lake) maintain a lifestyle largely unchanged for centuries. Local homestays are possible in Ringmo; staying here contributes directly to village income. The population was documented in Peter Matthiessen's 1978 classic The Snow Leopard, describing his journey to Shey Gompa with naturalist George Schaller.
Wildlife
Shey-Phoksundo National Park protects Nepal's largest population of snow leopards alongside blue sheep (bharal), Himalayan wolves, Tibetan argali, and red foxes. Spotting snow leopards requires patience, binoculars, and luck — but sightings are reported regularly, particularly in winter months when prey moves to lower elevations.